Garden furniture spends its life outdoors. Rain, bird droppings, pollen, spilt wine from that barbecue that ran late. It all adds up. Knowing how to clean garden furniture properly means you're not replacing it every few years. It means you can pull the covers off in April and actually sit down without wincing.
This guide covers the materials we know well: rattan, aluminium, metal, rope weave, and outdoor fabric cushions. Each material needs a slightly different approach, and getting it wrong (bleach on rattan, wire wool on aluminium) can do more harm than the dirt itself.
Skip to whatever applies to your furniture. No need to read the whole thing.
The basicsThe 5-Minute Quick Clean (Works on Almost Everything)
Most garden furniture just needs a quick wipe down through the season. If you're not dealing with mould, rust, or anything stubborn, brush off any loose debris. Leaves, cobwebs, general grime. Mix warm water with a squirt of washing up liquid (nothing fancy). Wipe everything down with a soft cloth or non abrasive sponge. Rinse with a garden hose. Let it dry fully before putting cushions back on.
That's genuinely it for a regular clean. If you do this every few weeks during summer, you'll rarely need to go deeper. The rest of this guide is for when things have gone a bit further. Mould after winter storage, green algae, rust spots, or cushions that smell like they've been in a shed since October (because they have).
Preparation
Before You Start: Check What You're Working With
Material matters. Aluminium doesn't rust but can oxidise. Rattan hates being soaked. Steel rusts if the paint chips. Get it right and cleaning is straightforward. Get it wrong and you're dealing with cracked weave, stripped coatings, or bleached fabric.
Three things to do before any deep clean:
1. Check the manufacturer's care label, especially for cushion covers. Some can't go in the washing machine without wrinkling permanently.
2. Test any cleaning solution on a hidden area first. Even mild vinegar solutions can discolour certain finishes.
3. Pick a dry, overcast day. Direct sun dries cleaning solutions too fast and can leave streaks. You want enough warmth for things to air dry naturally afterwards.
What you'll need for most jobs: a soft brush, microfibre cloths, a bucket, a garden hose, washing up liquid, and a non abrasive sponge. White vinegar and bicarbonate of soda are useful for tougher problems. Avoid bleach unless you know the material can handle it, skip wire wool entirely, and keep pressure washers for very specific situations (more on that below).
By materialHow to Clean Rattan & Wicker Garden Furniture
Most rattan garden furniture sold today, including everything we sell at daals, is synthetic polyrattan (PE rattan), not natural rattan cane. That distinction matters because polyrattan is significantly more robust. It won't absorb water the way natural rattan does, and it handles a garden hose without complaint. Natural rattan needs to be kept much drier.
Regular cleaning
Remove cushions first. Use a soft bristled brush or vacuum with a brush attachment to get dust and debris out from between the weave. This is where dirt really builds up, particularly in the crevices and corners where the frame meets the weave. Wash down with warm soapy water and a sponge, then rinse with a hose. Let it dry completely before putting cushions back.
Removing green algae and mould from rattan
If your rattan has developed that familiar green tinge after winter, mix two parts white vinegar with one part warm water and add a few teaspoons of bicarbonate of soda. Apply with a scrubbing brush, working the solution into the weave texture. Leave for ten minutes, then rinse thoroughly. For stubborn patches, repeat the process. Avoid bleach on rattan. It can cause discolouration and weaken the material over time.
What to avoid
No pressure washers on rattan, even polyrattan. The force can loosen the weave and push water into joints where it shouldn't be. No abrasive brushes or wire wool. No silicone based cleaners. And if you've got wicker garden furniture, the same rules apply. Wicker is a weaving style, not a material, and the cleaning approach is identical for synthetic weaves.
Worth knowing: An old toothbrush is one of the most useful tools for rattan. The bristles get into the tight weave pattern where sponges and cloths can't reach. Keep one specifically for this job.
Rattan Sets Worth Caring For
Built to handle the weather. A little cleaning goes a long way.
How to Clean Aluminium Garden Furniture
Aluminium garden furniture is probably the lowest maintenance material you'll own. It doesn't rust, which is the main advantage. It can, however, oxidise over time, leaving a chalky white residue on the surface, and it will collect dirt and dust over winter regardless of whether it's stored or left out.
Regular cleaning
Warm soapy water and a sponge. That's it. Wipe the frame down, rinse with a hose, and leave to dry. Usually takes about an hour. For frames with a brushed or textured finish, wipe in the direction of the grain to avoid leaving marks.
Removing oxidation
If you notice white, powdery patches, that's oxidation. Mix equal parts white vinegar and water, wipe over the affected areas with a soft cloth, and rinse. For anything more stubborn, a paste of bicarbonate of soda and water applied gently with a cloth works well. Avoid alkaline cleaning products. They actually cause oxidation rather than fixing it.
Protecting aluminium frames
Aluminium doesn't need much protection, but a thin coat of car wax once a year adds a layer that repels water and makes future cleaning easier. Apply it after a clean when the frames are fully dry. Takes ten minutes and makes a noticeable difference to how the furniture looks through the season.
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Low Maintenance Aluminium
Doesn't rust. Wipes clean in minutes. Hard to argue with that.
How to Clean Metal & Steel Garden Furniture
The word "metal" covers a lot of ground. Metal garden furniture might be powder coated steel, wrought iron, or painted frames. Each handles the elements differently, but they all share one thing: if the protective finish gets chipped or scratched, moisture gets in and rust follows.
Identifying your finish
Powder coated finishes are the most common on modern garden furniture. They're smooth, coloured, and fairly durable. Painted finishes chip more easily. Bare or untreated metal is rare on garden furniture, but if you have it, you'll already know because it'll already have some rust.
Regular cleaning
Warm soapy water and a non-abrasive sponge. Wipe down all surfaces, paying attention to joints, bolts, and underneath where moisture collects. Rinse and dry. Don't leave metal furniture sitting wet if you can help it.
Dealing with rust spots
Catch rust early and it's manageable. For surface rust on steel or iron, apply white vinegar directly to the spot, leave for fifteen to thirty minutes, then scrub gently with a soft brush. A paste of bicarbonate of soda and water also works well for small patches. For anything deeper, you may need a rust converter or light sanding, followed by a coat of rust inhibiting primer and touch-up paint to seal the repair.
Preventing rust
Check your furniture at the start and end of each season for chips, scratches, or exposed metal. Touch these up with matching paint or a rust-inhibiting primer before they become a problem. A thin coat of car wax on the frames helps create a barrier against moisture. Store steel furniture under a breathable furniture cover when not in use, particularly through winter.
Rust marks on your patio? Metal furniture legs can leave orange marks on stone or concrete. Stick felt pads or rubber caps on the feet to prevent this. Cheaper than repaving.
Steel & Metal Sets
Regular checks, occasional touch ups. Worth it for the look.
How to Clean Rope Woven Garden Furniture
Rope woven furniture has become increasingly popular, and for good reason. The synthetic rope used on modern outdoor sets is UV-resistant and weatherproof, but it still collects dust, pollen, and grime in the woven texture over time.
Regular cleaning
Use a soft brush to remove loose dirt from the rope weave. Wash with warm soapy water using a cloth or soft bristled brush, working it gently into the rope texture. Rinse with a hose and let it airdry completely. The rope dries fairly quickly since it doesn't absorb water the way fabric does.
Removing marks and algae
A diluted white vinegar solution (one part vinegar, two parts water) applied with a sponge works for green algae or marks that won't shift with soap alone. Leave for five minutes, scrub lightly, and rinse. As with rattan, avoid bleach and pressure washers. The force can fray the rope fibres.
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Rope Woven Collections
Texture that adds something different. Quick to clean too.
How to Clean Garden Furniture Cushions & Outdoor Fabric
Cushions are usually the first thing that needs attention after winter. They attract mould, absorb smells, and catch every spill from every barbecue. Good news: most outdoor cushion fabrics, particularly the polyester and acrylic used on modern fabric garden furniture, are designed to be cleaned. They're just not always designed to be cleaned the way you'd expect.
Check the care label first
This matters more than you'd think. Some cushion covers have a splash-proof coating that doesn't survive a washing machine cycle. They come out wrinkled and won't sit flat again. Others are genuinely machine-washable. Check before you do anything else.
How to clean outdoor cushions without a washing machine
For most outdoor cushions, you don't need a washing machine at all. Spot cleaning handles the majority of marks and smells without any risk of damaging the cover's coating — and it's the right approach whenever the care label says hand wash only, or you'd rather not take the chance.
Vacuum cushions first to remove loose dirt, crumbs, and pollen. Pay attention to seams and piping where grime hides. Mix warm water with a small amount of washing up liquid. Apply with a soft brush or cloth, working gently into stained areas without saturating the foam inside. Rinse with clean water, blot excess moisture with a towel, and stand cushions on their edge to dry. This lets air circulate around the foam.
Machine washing covers (only if the label says so)
If the care label confirms it, remove the covers, zip them closed, and wash on a cold, gentle cycle with mild detergent. No fabric softener, no bleach, no tumble dryer. Hang them outside to airdry, and put the covers back on before they're bone dry. They'll be easier to fit while slightly damp.
Removing mould and mildew from cushions
Mould happens. It's the reality of outdoor cushions in a British climate. Brush off any loose mould outside (you don't want spores indoors). Spray undiluted white vinegar onto the affected areas and leave for ten minutes. Scrub with a soft brush, then wash with warm soapy water and rinse thoroughly. The vinegar kills mould spores and helps prevent regrowth.
For severe mould on covers that can handle it, a diluted bleach solution (10 parts water to 1 part bleach) can be used, but test on a hidden area first, and rinse extremely thoroughly. Most of the time, vinegar does the job without the risks.
The most important part: drying properly
This is where most people go wrong. Cushions that aren't fully dry before being stored or covered will grow mould again within weeks. Stand them upright so air can circulate. Flip them halfway through. Give them a full day in decent weather. More if they're thick. If the foam inside still feels damp, it's not ready. Patience here saves you repeating the whole process in a month.
Honest take on outdoor cushions: They're splash-proof, not waterproof. They'll survive a light shower, but they're not designed to live outside through heavy rain. Bringing them in when you're not using them, or storing them under a cover with the furniture, is the single best thing you can do for their longevity.
How to Remove Common Outdoor Stains
Some things need more than warm soapy water. Here's what works for the usual suspects:
| Stain | How to Remove It |
|---|---|
| Bird droppings | Let it dry (easier to remove when solid), then scrape off gently. Clean the residue with warm soapy water. Bird droppings are acidic, so don't leave them sitting on fabric or painted surfaces. |
| Tree sap | Dab with rubbing alcohol or hand sanitiser on a cloth. Work from the outside of the stain inward. Rinse with soapy water afterwards. |
| Pollen | Don't rub it. That pushes it into the fabric. Shake or vacuum off what you can, then dab with a damp cloth. Stubborn pollen stains can be treated with a mix of washing-up liquid and cool water. |
| BBQ grease | Sprinkle bicarbonate of soda on the stain to absorb the grease. Leave for fifteen minutes, brush off, then wash with warm soapy water. |
| Green algae | White vinegar and water (1:1 ratio). Apply, leave for ten minutes, scrub, rinse. Works on frames and cushion covers. |
| Rust marks on patio | Lemon juice or white vinegar applied directly to the stain, left for thirty minutes, then scrubbed. Prevent this by adding felt pads to metal furniture legs. |
Can You Pressure Wash Garden Furniture?
Sometimes. But it's riskier than most people assume.
Reasonable with caution: aluminium frames and some metal furniture can handle a pressure washer on a low setting with a wide fan nozzle. Keep the nozzle at least 30cm from the surface and avoid directing the jet into joints, seams, or fastenings.
Don't do it: rattan (including polyrattan), wicker, rope weave, painted surfaces, or cushions. The pressure can loosen weave, force water into places it shouldn't be, strip paint, and damage fabric coatings. A garden hose with decent water pressure does the job without the risk.
If in doubt, use the hose. It takes slightly longer but you won't wreck anything.
Covers, Storage & Seasonal Care
Cleaning is one thing. Keeping furniture clean is another. A few habits through the year make a real difference:
Use proper covers
Breathable, waterproof furniture covers are the single most effective way to protect your investment. The key word is breathable. Non-breathable covers trap moisture underneath and create exactly the damp conditions mould loves. Look for covers with air vents or ventilation flaps. Covers tailored to your specific set fit better and protect better than generic ones.
Our customers mention covers constantly in reviews. Those who buy them early tend to have far fewer issues come spring. Worth the cost for what it saves in cleaning time and furniture longevity.
Seasonal habits that help
A quick wipe down every week or two during summer takes a couple of minutes and prevents grime from building up. Bring cushions in overnight or when rain is forecast. They're splash proof, not submersible. Keep furniture off direct contact with wet ground where possible, and if your set has metal legs on a stone patio, add felt pads to prevent rust staining.
End-of-season storage
Before putting everything away for winter, give the furniture a proper clean and let it dry fully. Store cushions in a dry, ventilated space. A breathable storage bag off the floor is ideal. Never store cushions while they're still damp, even slightly. For rattan and wicker, a ventilated cover is better than sealing it up. You want air to circulate. Touch up any paint chips on metal frames before covering them for winter.
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Covers & Protection
The easiest way to cut your cleaning time in half.
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should I clean garden furniture?
A light wipe down every couple of weeks during the season keeps things ticking over. A more thorough clean at the start and end of summer (twice a year) is plenty for most materials. If you notice mould, algae, or heavy staining, deal with it as it appears rather than letting it set in.
What's the best thing to clean garden furniture with?
Warm water and washing up liquid handles about 90% of garden furniture cleaning. It's mild enough for every material: rattan, aluminium, metal, rope, fabric. You already have it. White vinegar mixed with water is useful for algae, mild mould, and oxidation. Specialty cleaners (fabric protectant, rust converter) are worth having for specific problems, but they're not everyday necessities.
How do I get green algae off garden furniture?
Mix equal parts white vinegar and warm water. Apply with a cloth or spray bottle, leave for ten minutes, then scrub with a soft brush and rinse. This works on rattan, aluminium, metal, and rope. For very heavy algae growth, you may need to repeat the process or use a dedicated outdoor cleaner. Prevention is simpler. Keep furniture in a spot with some airflow and use covers when it's not in use.
Can I use bleach on garden furniture?
It depends on the material. A heavily diluted bleach solution (10:1 water to bleach) can be used on some fabric cushion covers for stubborn mould, but test on a hidden area first. Do not use bleach on rattan, wicker, or rope. It causes discolouration and can weaken the material. Aluminium and metal generally tolerate diluted bleach, but it's rarely necessary. Vinegar does most of what people reach for bleach for, without the risks.
How do I stop cushions getting mouldy?
Mould needs moisture. The fix is keeping cushions dry. Bring them indoors when they're not being used. If they get rained on, stand them on edge and let them dry completely before covering or storing them. Store them in a dry, ventilated space over winter. Not in a sealed box or bag where condensation can build. Using a breathable furniture cover with ventilation when cushions are left on the furniture also helps. The white vinegar spray after cleaning acts as a mild mould deterrent too.
Is it worth buying furniture covers?
Honestly, yes. Good covers (the breathable, tailored kind) are one of the most mentioned things in our customer reviews. People who use them from day one consistently report less mould, less cleaning, and furniture that looks newer for longer. They're not essential if you have indoor storage, but if your furniture lives outside year round, covers pay for themselves in reduced maintenance and extended life.
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